Who would imagine that here behind and beneath this sign for the Department of Health in the brand-new government city of Putrajaya there is an Office of Witchcraft and Magic. But so there is. No tourist will see this. Most Malaysians so not know it exists - or if they do they prefer not to advertise the fact. But nevertheless it is there. And why should it not, if it helps people who have been failed by modern medicine? I, personally, was delighted to be introduced to this aspect of Malaysia by native Malaysians. Without them I couldn't possibly have hoped to understand how close their culture is to that of Ireland in at least some of its otherworldly aspects. Sinister, perhaps, in some ways, but psychologically necessary, too. Most certainly interesting, though half a world away from us.